Saturday Night Fish Fry

Depending on the area, you’ll find the fried cod in New England-style fish and chips lightly coated in cornmeal, or dipped in a thick batter. Coast-hugging Rhode Islanders swear by the cornmeal method, with the batter method taking majority rule inland and throughout Massachusetts.

We were craving something in between. The cornmeal didn’t provide enough crunch, and we found the battered versions to be soggy and doughy, like an Asian-style sweet and sour chicken batter. After searching high and low for the perfect happy medium, with no luck, we took on the challenge of creating the perfect battered and fried cod.

We liked the idea of the sweet and sour batter, but hoped for something lighter, like tempura. The tempura recipes we tried, however, were so thin and light, they slid right off the cod before it hit the deep fryer. Although we loved the crunch of the tempura, even after dredging the cod in a light coating of flour before the batter, the tempura was still too thin and delicate for our craving.

Would the best of both batter worlds be possible? We had to find a way to achieve a thicker batter that produced a light and crunchy bite.

Cornmeal was unanimously voted out, so we focused on getting lift into a thicker flour batter that gave the same crunch as tempura, but with a more substantial layer. After testing club soda, birch beer and ginger ale, with various amounts of flour with or without baking soda, we turned to an old favorite: pale lager.

The lager provided the bubbles and lift we needed in the batter, and offered a malty, nutty flavor, complimented by the briny tartar sauce. One six pack of beer later, we landed on the right amount of flour to liquid ratio (without baking soda) for the perfect consistency.

Oh, and the chips! We wanted the fish fry to be the star, and opted for simple cottage cut potatoes slathered with olive oil, Kosher salt and pepper, and roasted in the oven until crisp-tender (about 35 minutes at 400 F).

Beer Battered Fish and Chips with Caper and Herb Tartar Sauce

Yields: 2 Servings
Method: Batter dipped
Allergy Info: Soy-free
Fancy Equipment: Deep fryer, Dutch oven or deep cast iron pan + a wire cooling rack set inside a baking pan

For the chips:
2 large russet potatoes, cut lengthwise into 8 wedges each
3 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the tartar sauce:
1/2 cup sour cream
1/4 teaspoon malt vinegar
1 teaspoon capers, minced
1 small clove garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh dill
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh flat leaf parsley
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste

For the fry:
32 ounces sunflower or canola oil
Kosher salt

For the fish:
1 lb. fresh cod (not frozen)
1/2 cup all purpose flour
1 teaspoon Kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

For the batter:
1-1/2 cup all purpose flour
1 (8-ounce) bottle pale lager

Make the potatoes:
Preheat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Add potato wedges, olive oil, salt and pepper to a large bowl, toss potatoes to coat evenly. Spread evenly, in one layer, on a baking sheet and bake for 35 minutes or until crispy on the outside, tender on the inside. (You’ll be busy cooking fish while the potatoes bake. Set the timer so you don’t forget them in the oven!)

Make the tartar sauce:
Combine the sour cream, vinegar, capers, garlic, dill and parsley in a medium bowl until well mixed. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Make the batter:
Add flour to a large glass or ceramic bowl. Slowly whisk in lager until just mixed, some lumps are OK. Allow to sit at room temperature while the oil comes to temperature.

Heat the oil:
Add oil to the deep fryer according to directions, or into the Dutch oven or cast iron pan. Heat on medium-high until the oil reaches 365 degrees Fahrenheit.

Prepare the fish:
Cut the cod fillets into 6 equal portions. Rinse and pat completely dry. In a shallow dish, combine the flour salt and pepper, whisk until incorporated.

When the oil reaches 265, dredge the fish in the flour, gently shaking off any excess, dip into the batter, and place in the hot oil. Repeat with as many pieces will fit into the fryer or pan, without overcrowding.

Fry until golden brown, about 6-7 minutes. Using a spider or tongs* and place on the wire rack until the rest of the fish is done. Place the baking pan with wire rack in the oven to keep the fish warm. (Don’t leave them in the oven too long…remember, the potatoes are in there at 400 F.)

Serve with malted vinegar and caper-herb tartar sauce.

*Be careful when using tongs with hot oil. Some of the hot oil can drip down the insides of the tongs and onto your skin.
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1. 

   Carol Peterman says:

   June 23, 2010 at 9:29 PM

   >I think you nailed the ATK voice. The fish looks and sounds spectacular. So good that it makes me actually consider infusing the house with the odor of "fried" in order to give this a try.

   reply
2. 

   Wicked Good Dinner says:

   June 23, 2010 at 9:45 PM

   >Thanks Carol! It's well worth the couple of days of open windows!

   reply
3. 

   Chow and Chatter says:

   June 24, 2010 at 10:11 PM

   >wow can't beat a good plate of fish and chips as a Brit we know this

   reply